One day I followed an elephant and ended up in one of the most amazing circumstances I have ever found myself in. And I don't know how to put it all into words. What I do know is that it was one of the most authentic situations I have ever experienced and it showed the level of hospitality that exists here in Assam.
The beginning of my visit to the northeast area of India was filled with disappointments. I wanted to visit Nagaland, but I had no permit and it was going to require going to Delhi to get one. I was told about Arunachal Pradesh and the Buddhist temple at Tawang. It sounded good and I wanted to go there. But again I had no permit and it was going to cost too much to fix that. The tea research center in Jorhat was closed when I went to visit. The gibbon wildlife sanctuary was unmanned. The satras on Majuli island were boring. Majuli itself was fairly pedestrian, as far as I was concerned. It was really feeling like it had been a bit of a mistake to come out here instead of heading into the more “standard” areas of India. But...
After the tea research center turned out to be closed, I headed in the direction of another of the places suggested by the man at Assam Tourism, Dekhiakhowa Namghar. This was to be a cultural experience, but it was not described, so it was an unknown cultural experience. I took a public transport out to the little town where I could get to the place. I was pointed down a road and told it was at the end. And I began to walk. It was actually a nice country road and quite a nice walk. I saw rice fields and little rural houses. I saw people doing their daily things. I had gotten a fair distance along the road and was wondering if I was ever going to reach this cultural spot, when along the road going in the opposite direction, I saw a man on an elephant. I stopped to take a photo of the elephant and the man stopped the elephant and beckoned for me to follow him. And in a spur of the moment, I decided to follow. I have described that day in another entry, so I won't say any more about that day, except that I was invited to the foundation ceremony of the temple and it was to be on the 31st of October and the 1st of November.
After I returned from Majuli and had the disappointment with the gibbon wildlife sanctuary, I was starting to wonder if anything was going to really work out very well. I was even a bit pessimistic about the Saikia's temple ceremony. But the lure of a truly authentic cultural experience was stronger than the pessimism, and on the last day of October, I headed out once again to Ladoigarh to see what would happen. I retraced my steps from my first visit and walked along the country road once again. In the distance I could hear some sounds that came as though over a loudspeaker. I took that to mean that I was actually going to be witnessing something, as I thought it was coming from my destination. Before I went in I snuck past in order to go and see the Dekhiakhowa Namghar place and see why I had been told to go there. I can't say I was all that impressed. It certainly welcomes lots of guests, as there was a fair-sized souvenir/service area out front, including a large parking area. There didn't seem to be many people visiting this day though. Or maybe I was just at the wrong time. But had I come all that way on the first day and only seen this place of worship, I think I would have felt ripped off. I was suddenly very, very glad that I had happened across the path of an elephant.
With a bit lighter step, I headed back to the temple and went in, not quite sure what to expect. I was immediately greeted by members of the Saikia family, who remembered me well and were clearly very glad that I had come back. I was taken into the now finished temple and given a seat and got to watch the middle ceremony. The daughter came by after a few moments and welcomed me back. She told me that I had missed the temple's puja, which had been held at 11:00. I was sorry about that. I should have asked more questions about what would happen and when when I was there the first time. I had understood that I could come by at any time and it would be good. I would have liked to have witnessed that first ceremony. But I still had lots that I could see. The group that was there was blessing the temple as well as being blessed by the “priests” who were officiating. These included a head honcho for the whole of Assam.
And though it was a very important day for the Saikia family, as well as the Bora family (who had donated the materials for the temple in honour of their mother), there was lots of merriment and it was definitely not a solemn occasion. Nor was it strict. Mr. Saikia was encouraging me to take photos and even had one of the “priests” pose for me when he got out of one his positions too soon.
And, of course, we took a photo together.
The blessings took place for everyone and then there was a bite to eat. This was served on banana leaves and consisted of some fruit and a mixture of nuts of various sorts.
Now, in Hindu religion, the elephant has a special place. The Hindu elephant god is Ganesha and has a particular affinity with Shiva. So the family's elephant (that seems such an odd thing to write) was brought in fairly often to be part of the festivities and she had fairly free reign of the temple. Then she would be led away again.
While these festivities were going on, I met the woman who was more or less responsible for the temple coming into existence. They referred to her as Baba. She's the woman with the red hair. She is a holy woman who is apparently able to channel the energy of Shiva. At night she often has dreams that are from Shiva. In one of her dreams, she apparently dreamt of the spot where the Saikia temple is located and came and told them to build a temple for Shiva. And so they did. Now she was here to help them open it, or whatever it would be called. During the time when I was meeting people, I was invited to return that evening for a musical presentation by Mr. Saikia's son and a group of people with whom he performs. Baba also invited me for the next night, when there would be a dance performance. I thought it would be interesting to attend both and I accepted. I also thought it would be good to come to the performance that Baba invited me to attend because she was basically associated with a god and I didn't want to offend. It would mean changing my plan and going on to Kaziranga a day later. I would also have to cancel the place that one of the Assam Tourism people had helped me book. But I didn't think it would be a big problem. The only thing I wasn't sure how to work out was how to get back and forth. Then another of the Bora family, the sister of the man I met the first day I was there, said they would take me back and forth. We headed back to Jorhat and I tried to get back to the Assam Tourism office in time to catch the officers, but I just missed them. I would have to cancel my room the next day.
At about 7, Mrs. Bora and her husband came to pick me up again and take me out to the Saikia home for the evening's program. Unfortunately, we arrived just as the musical performance was ending. I had really wanted to see that, but it wasn't to be. I did take a photo of the son in costume though, along with one of his friends.
I was also becoming, as can be imagined as I was the only foreigner in this whole group of however many local Assamese, a bit of the center of attention in some ways. Lots of people came to talk to me and have their photos taken with me. I didn't really mind.
She was really cute, and she had amazing colour in her eyes.
The evening's festivities were more about blessings and chanting. There were some “priests” sitting before the temple area and reading from the Gita, the Hindu holy book. I was told they would be taking turns and reading for the whole of the night. They were doing so over a loudspeaker, so I don't know how anyone in the neighbourhood was going to be getting any sleep.
At about midnight, we headed back to Jorhat and the Bora's took me to my hotel. I hoped that the hotel wasn't going to be closed up tight, so I could get in and get some sleep. One of the other Bora sons had given me his card and told me to call him the next morning. He would take me to his vegetable/food factory and he would show me some real Assamese food. I wasn't really excited about it, but I told him I would. As it happened, I woke up to rain and it didn't stop until about noon. I didn't really feel like going out to find a public phone call office, and I didn't end up calling him. He was a bit annoyed about that, but then he was also a bit pushy the night before. I remember a conversation we had about religion. He wanted to know what I knew of Hinduism. He asked me what the religion of Canada is, and he was completely dismissive when I told him that Canada has all the religions, mainly because there are so many immigrants who bring their religion with them. That was impossible, he said. Every country has their state religion and he wanted to know what Canada's was. And he just didn't believe me that all the religions are in Canada. He asked me what my religion was. I told him I don't have a religion. He was shocked about that. He even went to far as to suggest a scenario to try and get me to tell him. He told me to imagine that I was walking and came upon a very poisonous snake that bit me. Who would I call out to? I told him I didn't know. He kind of gaped at me and said, “Really?” I thought really hard about whether I would say something like Satan or Mom or some other odd ball, irreverent answer, but I didn't think that would be prudent with someone who was so sure about his views of religion. And so, while I apologized profusely about not calling when I saw him again that evening, I really didn't care that I hadn't called him that morning.
I spent the day just lolling about. At about 4, I headed out to go back to the Saikia property. I got there at just the time I was told, 6 pm. Something was just wrapping up and I thought I might have missed the program. But I was just early. I guess the dance was to begin at about 7 or 7:30, and I had been told the wrong time. I was just glad I hadn't missed anything. I was given a spot to sit for a few minutes. Then there was some speeches being done. Suddenly everyone started looking at me. I gathered they were speaking about me. Then they beckoned me up to the microphone. Nothing like being put on the spot with no warning. I was asked to say a few words about how I felt being there. It was a bit awkward, but I managed to tell everyone that I was honoured and touched to be included so warmly in the foundation ceremony of the temple and that everyone was treating me so wonderfully. Then they gave me yet another one of the Assamese scarves and I went back to my seat. Then everyone started to break up and leave. I was suddenly worried about my timing again. I was assured that I hadn't missed anything. People were just going to get changed and ready for the evening.
Another friend of the family was very eager to show me his house. So I was told to go with him and he would bring me back in time for the performance. The number of people who showed me such hospitality during the time I spent in Jorhat was amazing. We got on his bike and he took me out to his place, where I met his children and wife and saw their great big new house, that is currently not being lived in. I guess it's not quite complete, and the only room that is being used is the son's study room. Other than that, they are still all staying in the little house in the back. They served me some tea and biscuits and then we all piled into their car and went back to the Saikia place.
We went and got seated and everyone got ready for the dance performance. Before the performance began, there was a final pass and blessing by the elephant. (I forget the elephant's name.)
A group of girls from among the Saikia's neighbours had been working for a couple of days putting together the dances for the evening. There were eight or nine episodes telling some story about Shiva. The first, I was told by the religious Mr. Bora, was the girls trying to wake the sleeping Shiva. Shiva, I noticed, was played by Baba, which only made sense as she does channel his energy. I can lay no claim to knowing what all the dances were about. I assume they represented some story in the canon regarding Shiva. I can only say that, for only a couple of days of practice, those girls did an amazing job of performing those dances. And some of them required a great deal of energy and endurance to perform. The performance took about an hour and a half, and it was very entertaining. I had a very good time.
At the end of the dances, Baba stood by herself in the performance area, just in front of the temple, and seemed to go into a trance. (When she saw the photo later that I took of that moment, she commented that that was the period when she wasn't there, meaning that Shiva had taken over.)
Then the performance was finished. I was sitting wondering what would happen next. The Mrs. Bora who was taking me back and forth to Jorhat came over and told me that Baba was asking to see me. So I went and talked with her for a few minutes before the Bora's said they were leaving and asked if I wanted to stay or leave with them. I left, of course, not wanting to get left somewhere with no way back to Jorhat. In addition, I had come for the dance presentation and that was complete, so there was no other reason for me to stay.
So we finished up with some photos at the entrance to the temple.
And I have another photo with another young lady. This is Mr. Saikia's daughter. She's 17 and she has one of the most interesting names of anyone I have met in a while (aside from Lonsdale in the Solomon Islands). Her name is Rapunzeli. I will print some photos of these couple of days and send them to the family. I think I may also include a version of the fairy tale for her. I have no way of thanking them properly for their hospitality, but that might be something.
I don't know how to thank the Saikias and the Boras and Baba and all of the people who included me in this event. It is something I will never forget and I wish there was some way I could express that properly to them. But words will never be enough and I'm not sure I could ever manage it anyway.
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