According to my sources of information, Majuli is the cultural center of Assam. People come here to experience the cultural aspects of the area. There are a number of Satras here. I didn't really know what satras are, but in the brochure Assam Tourism gave me, the descriptions of the important satras suggest that they are places of learning and they are places that store cultural knowledge of various sorts. One of the local satras is where the knowledge of masks and mask-making is found. Another of them is famous for the Apsara Dance. I thought that might mean that they had demonstration areas in these satras and that visitors could get some kind of initiation or insight into the various cultural arts of the Assamese people. I was particularly taken with the idea of the Auniati Satra and its Apsara Dance. The Khmer people of Cambodia hold the Apsara in great reverence and I wondered if it was the same Apsara. I wanted to visit the Auniati Satra to find out.
I had been told by both Matai and Gili that a good way to get around the island would be to hire a bicycle and ride about. The island is flat and so easy for biking. But when I attempted to find a bike to rent for the day, I was out of luck. I asked at the guest house, but they didn't have any. Then I walked into town, on Gili's advice and tried at a bike repair shop. Another of the local police officers helped me ask, but they had no bikes for hire. I asked at one other place, and had no luck there either. So I just decided to walk. The Auniati Satra was apparently some 4 kilometers from the town site, which was a kilometer and a half from the guest house. It didn't seem to be an unmanageable distance. And the day was beautiful and clear. I started out.
The Brahmaputra River must flood every spring with the snow melts in the Himalaya range. I have seen signs in town showing the devastating effects of a flood a couple of years ago, but this must be a somewhat regular occurrence. As such, I imagine that the island must go under water at regular intervals. They have therefore taken steps here to mitigate the effects of the floods. Most of the living space, and all of the inter-village travel is done on levees that are 3 meters or so above the actual level of the island. And these travelling roads are all at the same height, so the travelling is very level and easy. And as I walked, I made a circuit on these levees. There was no break at all in them, so there is at least one area on the island that is completely isolated from any flooding, as long as the water level doesn't reach the height of the levees. I'm not sure, however, what effect this has on the natural evolution of the landscape. And even though it is completely isolated from the river now, there is still a heck of a lot of water inside the “bowl” created by the levees.
I walked my way towards the target of my travels. I noted along the way some interesting sights. A bird airing its wings...
...an opportunity to try some artistic photography...
...what seemed to be a muslim-type of building...
...and a roadwork crew who wanted their photos taken. They were quite insistent. I don't know if this is some kind of reversal on the whole please-take-a-photo-with-me-on-my-camera-so-I-can-show-everyone-I-know-the-foreigner-I-met-but-no-longer-remember-the-name-of or not. But I don't know if they truly realize that I have lots of photos of people who insisted I take their photo. It's not that I think they are being silly, for many people must think I am silly for wanting to take photos of them doing what, for them, must be the mundane bits of life that must be uninteresting in the extreme. But here was a road crew, much like any road crew anywhere in the world. I don't really know how to explain it though. But it is more people photos nevertheless, and I'm always being told I should take more photos of people instead of just scenery. Of course, people really want more people photos where I am the people. “How do you know you were really there if you aren't in the photos?” I know, silly. And if you don't believe that I was there, that's your problem.
Anyway, as I approached the satra I was looking for, I passed a house where a man and a woman were working in the yard. As I passed by, the woman called me and told me to come in. So I did. She sat me in their house and brought me some tea and we talked. In two different languages. I haven't picked up much Assamese, and they spoke almost no English. Somehow we got along just fine. But it was rather hilarious in retrospect. Communication needs nothing more than two people who want to communicate though. Common language, common gestures, common culture, or anything else are not necessary. We had great fun.
Then I headed into the Auniati Satra. I made the mistake of starting in with my shoes on and was scolded for it by a man outside. I need some kind of satra visiting guidebook. I passed through the gate into what I hoped would be some kind of illuminating experience.
And I found not much of interest. It seemed to be a commune-type compound. There was a ring of living quarters that I found out later were monks' cells. There were some buildings that looked like meeting/prayer/meditation areas in the center. And there weren't many people about. Those that were about were mainly sitting in their quarters watching television or visiting with others. I was subtly disappointed.
People were about and some asked me my name or where I was from. It was the standard sort of interrogation that anyone who doesn't speak English gives me when they try to chat and use their rudimentary English skills. I did meet a guy with fair English. He was some kind of go to guy for the Assam Tourism people when they needed someone to go out and talk in the community. He told me, once again about a festival in a couple of weeks time that is fairly special to Majuli. It has to do with the holy Krishna and takes place over three days. It will have loads of cultural events and should be quite interesting. But only if I am willing to give another week to this area. And I'm just not sure that I want to do that. This monk and his friend talked to me for a little while, and gave me some more tea. Then with the suggestion that I check out the museum on the grounds, I took my leave. I passed the museum again, but it was closed, as it had been when I first passed it on my way in.
And I walked back out to the road and continued on my long way around the culvert levee to get back to Kamalabari and the guest house. At first I wasn't sure I was really going in the right direction. The trail I was following was getting rougher and rougher and seemed in danger of disappearing completely. But then I would pass another little village and it would get better. Then I passed a spot where I met Papu once again. He has a little store at a small crossroad and was just getting back from a trip into Kamalabari. He stopped me and had me sit down and chat for a while. He introduced me around to his family and friends. Actually he showed me around and told me about them. I didn't really meet anyone more than to wave and say hi. It was kind of a weird situation. Then he took me into his house and... offered me tea. I was starting to float from all tea this day. But I was meeting lots of people and getting to know the really friendly locals.
After this final meeting, I headed back to Kamalabari, now sure that I was indeed on the right trail, and got a bite to eat before returning to the guest house for the evening.
I think I will stay through tomorrow and head back to the mainland and the animal sanctuaries on Sunday. It is getting time to move on to other parts of India, the more stereotypical parts that are sought. And the crowds and the begging and the more raucous experience one thinks of when India comes to mind.
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