Mata Mandir and Smaller Sights in Amritsar

The main sites for tourists in Amritsar are the Golden Temple, the border closing ceremony, and the so-called Silver Temple. With my ample time in the city, I decided to make sure I would see the Silver Temple, or Durgiana Mandir as it's called. But I had read about another place called Mata Temple as well. A guy in my guest house told me he had visited it as well, and he gave it a raving thumbs up. I set out to find it as well.

I had looked it up in Google Maps and on Google Earth, but Mata Temple wasn't actually listed anywhere, so it was difficult to find. I didn't want to have to rely on a rickshaw driver to get me there if I could find it myself and within a reasonable distance. I eventually found a spot with a photo posted on Google Earth, and knew roughly where I would have to go to find it.

I started walking and avoided the rickshaw guys for the most part. One guy, though, seemed to think that my walking right past him with barely a muttered, “Hi,” in response to his greeting was actually an invitation to turn his rickshaw around and come after me and try to get me to ride in his rickshaw. No. I don't want to ride. I'm walking and I don't know why you are following me. It took a while, but he gave up.

Then I was not entirely sure where to go next, so I stopped at a corner to ask a man where I had to go. Another rickshaw driver rode up and asked where I was going. He had a fare already, so I let him tell me what direction I had to go. Of course, I also knew that he was probably going to be dropping his fare off shortly and I would have to face him again. And I did. He followed me for a long while wanting to take me to the temple. I told him I was really wanting to walk. He told me it was so far. He just didn't get it. In the end he kind of gave up, but I thought I might see him yet again. So when I discovered what a different animal Amritsar really is, I took the opportunity to duck out and take a bit of a rest.

Unlike most of the spots that I have visited in India, Amritsar has recreational parks. Sitting in the middle of a couple of neighbourhoods, I saw parks with playgrounds and benches and nicely landscaped lawns. It was really nice, and something I haven't seen much of at all in India so far. It was a refreshing surprise.

After a short rest, I headed back out to find the temple. There was no sign of the rickshaw driver. Score! After asking a few more people, I found the well-marked lane to find the temple (by well-marked, I actually mean there was no indication at all that I was headed in the right direction), and headed down it. Along the way, I had people call out hello's and then ask if I was looking for the temple. When I said yes, they indicated the way with a big smile. Helpful, friendly locals. It's so nice to be back in that kind of India.

I found the temple and it was really interesting. The temple required a visit through a maze of corridors that led up stairs and through corridors, past idols of all kinds of different gods, even through tunnels that were shaped to give the impression of being in caves, some with water on the floor. It was really cool. Except for the huge number of people asking for a donation. Again, that could have been left for one guy at the door. But all in all, it was a visit well worth the effort involved.

Then it was on to the Silver Temple, which meant getting back across the train tracks. It was reasonably easy to manage, but still required asking directions a couple of times. This was always forthcoming, with no exasperation on the part of the helpers. They just helped. Ah, India. Is there any way I can fly to Egypt from here without having to return to Delhi?

I arrived at the Durgiana Temple and it was quite impressive as well. It also sits in the middle of a pool of water. I'm not sure if that is an attempt to make it as impressive as the Golden Temple or if they really need it. I haven't seen another Hindu temple so situated, so I'm suspicious.

Whatever the case, the Silver Temple isn't all that silver. It too seems to gilded in gold. I'm not sure what the silver refers to, but the back part of the temple is all white marble, so maybe it refers to the colour of the temple there. It is still an attractive temple.

I arrived as some sort of ceremony was going on inside. This was at noon. While I was watching, a man approached me and started talking to me. He showed me a page where he had written: Lifeisnowhere. He asked me to read it and he would explain what it was in a few moments. I have seen it before, but I still initially saw: Life is nowhere. After looking at it again, I remembered that it actually says: Life is now here.

He came back and told me he was a teacher and wanted to talk to me. I was a bit wary, wondering if this was going to end up costing me anything. But he just talked to me about being to experience the whole world even though he has never been anywhere. I thought that was lovely, but I was still glad I was able to travel and experience the world first hand. A British couple came in and he invited them over. He taught us a few words in Hindi, that I would have liked to have known a lot earlier, with only a few days left in the country, but better late than never. Unfortunately I didn't write them down, and now they are lost to me.

Then he took his leave of us and it had really been just a man being friendly. Super!

After that I finished looking around the temple grounds and headed off to find the Golden Temple again. Nearby, I had seen a stand selling sleeper bus tickets to Delhi. I could have tried to take the train, but the train times are somewhat inconvenient, and with the extra length of the trip here from Haridwar, I didn't want to be stuck on a train for a full day or so waiting for fog to clear. I don't know what might happen with the bus, but I'll deal with that should it occur. It's all why I am going back with three days to spare. If something goes horribly wrong, then I have time to get in place for my flight.

I had really enjoyed Amritsar and I looked forward to just chillin' in a park the following day before my night bus back to icky Delhi.