Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Hangin' Out In Khecheperi


Khecheperi Lake was more about just relaxing in a natural setting than really doing or seeing anything. Nevertheless there was plenty to see and do. Sonam's guest house is located on a ridge above a valley where the holy lake of Khecheodpalri Lake. Legend says it was a place of nettles. Then two conch shells came down from the sky and entered the earth, whereupon a great spring sprang forth. It is supposedly the abode of the chief Protective Nymph of Dharma. It also has the shape of a foot and Buddhists say it is the footprint of the goddess Tara. It is also said to be a wish-fulfilling lake and people who are pure of heart have wishes granted and are blessed with health and happiness. Naturally none of this will apply to me of less than pure heart.

The first night at the guest house there was a couple of Australians who had found Buddhism to be a good way of life. They were also advocates of yoga. The next morning they were headed across the valley to another town, but first they wanted to visit the lake. I had just arrived the day before, late in the day, and I wanted to see the lake as well, so I went down with them. It is quite a trek going down, just as it was coming up. One way, it takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Down we went and into the area of the sacred lake. There was an entry fee booth, but I didn't see it, so I didn't pay. Nobody stopped me, so I figured later that it mustn't have been that important. Inside there was a small pond, fed by the waters of the lake. Visitors were reminded that it was a holy spot and they shouldn't put their feet in the water. A short ways farther along the path was a monastery, notable for being, in fact, a nunnery (or whatever they would be called in Buddhism). It was Tibetan in “flavour” and had the prayer wheels around the outside and a large prayer wheel inside. Simon and Lily, the Australians, passed around the building and spun the wheels and then went inside and spun the big one. I followed suit, not really knowing what the whole exercise is for. Perhaps I'll look into one day. Then one of the lady monks came out and told us we could go up and look inside the monastery. We headed up to the building and had a look inside. We didn't go in because the lady monks were doing their chanting and meditating. We didn't want to intrude.

After a while, we headed down the path again and eventually ended up at the holy lake. We looked at it from above and then went down to another set of prayer wheels along a wooden pathway to the edge of the lake. It was serene and peaceful. At 10:00 o'clock when we got there. While we were putting our shoes back on though, the hordes started arriving. Naturally, as a holy lake with lots of significance in the Buddhist faith, it is an attraction for anyone visiting that part of Sikkim. And so they come. And, as always with your run of the mill tourist, they don't really have a lot of sense of propriety. Even with signs everywhere suggesting that quietness is good. So, we heard them coming hundreds of meters off. And it was so much for the peace and serenity. But we had a bit of it. We headed off further along the path by the lake. Simon and Lily had brought a small set of prayer flags and they decided they wanted to tie them up at this lake. So they selected a spot they thought would be suitable and they put their flags up between a couple of trees. These are the same types of flags as can be seen all around the lake. Some are longer sets of flags, some are bigger, some are set on a series of poles, and so on. They are high and low. They are tied to trees, and even to other strings of prayer flags. I'm not exactly sure what they do, but it's safe to say they are likely some kind of blessing or wish for health or happiness or something along those lines.


Having taken care of that bit of business, Simon and Lily headed off towards the path to the next town, and I headed back up the hill to the guest house and a lazy afternoon. It was made lazier by the coming of rain, that pretty much put a damper on further activity. (Leaches like rain and wet, so they come out in droves in the area when it rains. But the setting is very nice for just lolling around, so rain or no, it was a good afternoon.

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