The (Exhausting) Trek to Yuksam

The day dawned crisp and clear. There were few clouds in the sky. Once again, the mountains across the valley could be seen clearly and it was a magnificent sight. It seemed a good omen to begin the trek to Yuksam. I was feeling strong and my back seemed to be fairly sturdy. I figured I would probably make it through the day. I did hope though that I wasn't going to hold Robin and Kenichi up too much. 

We ate a hearty breakfast, paid our room and board and headed out, but not before saying a final good-bye to Sonam's father. He had been the cook for the Dalai Lama and had told us a bunch of stories the night before. He was a very interesting man.

Back down the hill to the village below, for the third time, I was getting very familiar with the path down the mountainside. It didn't make it any easier, and certainly not with 15 kilograms to carry with me. But it wasn't too bad.

From the village at the bottom, we headed down the road for a bit until we found the shortcut down into and across the valley. It was beautiful. We walked through villages on the mountainside. We walked through quiet forests, quiet except for the birds in the trees. I don't know quite what to say about the scenery, so I will let the scenery speak for itself.

I managed quite well. Down was not a particular problem. Gravity did most of the work. But on the other side, we continued to follow the shortcut instead of following the road, which was much longer. For me this may have been a mistake. There were a couple of times where I wobbled and almost fell down. It was quite a tough climb with the extra weight. I was really wishing that I had left a bunch of stuff in Darjeeling, or somewhere else along the way. But I had not thought I would do something like that and so...

And in the end I made it. Robin and Kenichi got way ahead of me at times, but I still managed to catch up in the end, at the village of Yuksam. We finished up at a spot in the village, reputed to be the spot where three monks from the surrounding mountains met and crowned a fourth person as the king of the area. That was the birth of the kingdom of Sikkim. The thrones for the various participants was still intact.

So was a tree that was planted at the time. It was now quite massive.

Then it was into the village itself where we got some well-deserved refreshments and found a spot to spend the night. It had been a successful adventure. But it had also convinced me that I was going to be in no shape to deal with Nepal in any sort of reasonable timeframe, given my other goals for this trip. So, Nepal has been scratched off the itinerary for this point in time. Oh well. A spot to come back to.

Hangin' in Khecheperi for a Third Day

Another pair of guests headed out on my third day at the guest house. This was a French couple, Greg and Michelle. Greg was on his second visit to the guest. He had been there 5 years before and had spent some time exploring the region. This time he had brought his wife and they were spending a couple of weeks in Sikkim. They were going to go for a bit of a circuit for three days before returning to Sonam's and going on a three trek with Sonam to another mountain town. This day they were off to hike to Yuksam, the town across the valley and the next in the hiking/trekking circuit in West Sikkim around the towns and villages of the area. They were the second set of people to do this hike, and I had to admit that I was interested in doing it myself. I had come to Sikkim more or less on a lark. It was unplanned and I hadn't even known what I could or would do here. As such, I had brought all my stuff with me. This was a problem because all my stuff together is fairly heavy. I wanted to do the hike, but I also knew it would take about four to five hours for someone in good condition, so for me it might take 6 or seven. And I would have to carry all that stuff with me. Or I might be able to leave it at Sonam's and return another day, but I wasn't sure I wanted to do that. But I had another day to think about it. In the meantime, we bid adieu to Greg and Michelle.

As well, the day had dawned much clearer and the mountains in the distance could be seen. These were mountains of the Himalaya (and it is apparently not supposed to be with an “s” on the end as the part of the word “-laya” is already plural), and the one that could be viewed was called Mt. Kabru or something. But it made a nice sight that morning.

Later that morning, Karen came by and said she was headed down to a village called Thingling. She wanted to buy the ingredients for an Israeli dish called Shukshuka that she was going to make later. A number of us decided to go with her. So we headed off past the monastery at near the guest houses and down the mountain. It was a loooong way down. We had been told it was about 20 minutes. It was much longer than that. Damn these mountain people who climb like mountain goats. They forget that we tenderfeet aren't used to all the climbing and we don't do so nearly as fast or as well. But the views were quite nice and we saw interesting little things along the way.

When we got to the village, it seemed to be the standard sort of little mountain village in the area, sitting there on the side of the mountain. And it had this store in the center with vegetables and eggs and chocolate and other goods. I don't know how it keeps stocked. Probably the people around the area bring their produce in and sell it to the store, which then turns around and sells it to the people who need it. The chocolate, of course, comes from elsewhere.

I particularly liked the house in the village that had an old, traditional part, a newer part, and a satellite dish. I guess they really like their Discovery Channel around here.

Then it was the long hike back up the mountain to the guest houses.

Once we arrived back at the guest house, one of the other guests, a French Canadian named Robin had decided to hike the next day to the town of Yuksam. Having been intrigued by the idea myself, I asked him if he wanted any company. He said he would be glad of the company and so I decided that I would make the trek. I didn't know how I would handle it, whether my back had reached the point where it would be okay with a hike like that, and probably with all my stuff to carry as well. But I decided there was no time like the present to find out. And I figured it would be a beautiful hike down across and up the valley. It was something that I didn't want to miss. And I would also be able to see if there was any chance I could handle a trip in Nepal. One of the other guests, Kenichi (from Japan) decided that he would accompany us as well and so it was going to be a threesome the next. Then we found out that a whole bunch of other people would be heading away from the guest houses as well. Many would be going back to Darjeeling and points beyond. The guest houses were going to have lots of space the next night.

(Karen's shukshuka was delicious.)

Still Hangin' in Khecheperi

Sonam is the name of the guy who owns the guest house where I was staying. It is not a first-class accommodation. There is no room service, nor is there running water. Heating is whatever clothes you have brought that are warm, or the fire in the kitchen. There is electricity, but no outside lights. The sky at night, when it's not cloudy, is brilliant. And the surrounding mountains remind me of home. All around there are animals, some of which provide food, others of which become food. There is a garden with all kinds of vegetables. Sonam's wife is a superb cook and the meals we had were incredible, both in wholesome taste and in quantity. Included in the fee to stay at the guest house was three square meals a day, and they were prodigious. We ate so much food, I think I must have put back on any weight I have lost in these past few months. But it was worth it. It was delicious. And the price for this amazing place was a mere 6 dollars a day (300 rupees). It was unbelievable.

After a rainy night, and an early one at around 10 o'clock, the morning was gray and cloudy. There had been some new arrivals the afternoon before and they had not seen the mountains around the area. They were all around the ridge where the little village with Sonam's guest house, but the mountains were hidden in the mists. We told the new arrivals that they were there, but I'm not entirely sure they believed us.

After an early rise and then breakfast, I decided to have a bit of a wander around the little village, to see what was there. Beyond the second guest house (which is right beside Sonam's guest house and is run by his father) is a small monastery with a rather large stupa (or whatever it would be called in Buddhism). Leading along the path to the monastery is a line of prayer flags on poles, in different colours. It made a nice sort of processional when walking along the path.

Karen, the Israeli woman who had told me about the guest house and the lake, came by and wondered about going down to the lake. Sarah, one of the new arrivals from the day before, decided she wanted to go as well. And I thought it would be good exercise, so I decided to go again as well. Down we went. This time, it was approaching midday, and that meant that the tourist hordes were already there and in a large pack. We sat at a little restaurant/cafe and drank some chai (spiced tea that is a specialty in India). Karen told us that at her guest house, she heard a story that someone had come down and had some vegetable momos, which are basically the Indian version of dumplings. Later the person died. I was a bit dubious. It sounded like some sort of exaggerated tale. If someone had really died, I would have thought the story would be all over the place. Nevertheless, Karen and I had eaten some vegetable momos down there when we had arrived and so it gave us pause. But that had been two days before, so I figured we were safe.

We waited and waited for the parade of tourist jeeps to slow down to a trickle, but it didn't happen. We thought it would have to be later in the day, but none of us wanted to wait that long, nor did we relish the thought of climbing up and then coming back down later. So we eventually gave up and just went in. I had been there without lots of people, so it didn't really bother me one way or the other, but it was too bad for Karen and Sarah. It was pretty much like the day before, only with more people, and it was overcast as well. And because of the rain, I had to contend with a few leaches as well.

And this time I bought a ticket like a good little boy. So I now had the souvenir ticket with the story of lake and it's origins printed on the back.

Then it was back up the hill for lunch (which we had missed because we sat waiting for the tourist hordes to magically disappear). But they knew we were coming and heated it up for us when we got back. I loved that guest house. They were so nice. If anyone ever visits India and goes for jaunt to Sikkim, Sonam's guest house at Khecheperi Lake is highly, highly recommended.

Hangin' Out In Khecheperi

Khecheperi Lake was more about just relaxing in a natural setting than really doing or seeing anything. Nevertheless there was plenty to see and do. Sonam's guest house is located on a ridge above a valley where the holy lake of Khecheodpalri Lake. Legend says it was a place of nettles. Then two conch shells came down from the sky and entered the earth, whereupon a great spring sprang forth. It is supposedly the abode of the chief Protective Nymph of Dharma. It also has the shape of a foot and Buddhists say it is the footprint of the goddess Tara. It is also said to be a wish-fulfilling lake and people who are pure of heart have wishes granted and are blessed with health and happiness. Naturally none of this will apply to me of less than pure heart.

The first night at the guest house there was a couple of Australians who had found Buddhism to be a good way of life. They were also advocates of yoga. The next morning they were headed across the valley to another town, but first they wanted to visit the lake. I had just arrived the day before, late in the day, and I wanted to see the lake as well, so I went down with them. It is quite a trek going down, just as it was coming up. One way, it takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Down we went and into the area of the sacred lake. There was an entry fee booth, but I didn't see it, so I didn't pay. Nobody stopped me, so I figured later that it mustn't have been that important. Inside there was a small pond, fed by the waters of the lake. Visitors were reminded that it was a holy spot and they shouldn't put their feet in the water. A short ways farther along the path was a monastery, notable for being, in fact, a nunnery (or whatever they would be called in Buddhism). It was Tibetan in “flavour” and had the prayer wheels around the outside and a large prayer wheel inside. Simon and Lily, the Australians, passed around the building and spun the wheels and then went inside and spun the big one. I followed suit, not really knowing what the whole exercise is for. Perhaps I'll look into one day. Then one of the lady monks came out and told us we could go up and look inside the monastery. We headed up to the building and had a look inside. We didn't go in because the lady monks were doing their chanting and meditating. We didn't want to intrude.

After a while, we headed down the path again and eventually ended up at the holy lake. We looked at it from above and then went down to another set of prayer wheels along a wooden pathway to the edge of the lake. It was serene and peaceful. At 10:00 o'clock when we got there. While we were putting our shoes back on though, the hordes started arriving. Naturally, as a holy lake with lots of significance in the Buddhist faith, it is an attraction for anyone visiting that part of Sikkim. And so they come. And, as always with your run of the mill tourist, they don't really have a lot of sense of propriety. Even with signs everywhere suggesting that quietness is good. So, we heard them coming hundreds of meters off. And it was so much for the peace and serenity. But we had a bit of it. We headed off further along the path by the lake. Simon and Lily had brought a small set of prayer flags and they decided they wanted to tie them up at this lake. So they selected a spot they thought would be suitable and they put their flags up between a couple of trees. These are the same types of flags as can be seen all around the lake. Some are longer sets of flags, some are bigger, some are set on a series of poles, and so on. They are high and low. They are tied to trees, and even to other strings of prayer flags. I'm not exactly sure what they do, but it's safe to say they are likely some kind of blessing or wish for health or happiness or something along those lines.

Having taken care of that bit of business, Simon and Lily headed off towards the path to the next town, and I headed back up the hill to the guest house and a lazy afternoon. It was made lazier by the coming of rain, that pretty much put a damper on further activity. (Leaches like rain and wet, so they come out in droves in the area when it rains. But the setting is very nice for just lolling around, so rain or no, it was a good afternoon.