Anatomy of an Almost Perfect Day

Sometimes things just seem to work out. It takes almost no effort to make it happen that way. It just works out. This was one of those days.

I got up in the morning and had some breakfast. Egypt really needs to work on its idea of breakfast. It's not that bad, but it's not really what I would call breakfast. It often consists of a couple hot dog type buns, some jam, a small wedge of some kind of cheese and sometimes a boiled egg. That is usually what's included as breakfast when you are in a place that includes breakfast. And it's not really what I want in breakfast. But, it is included, so I take what I get.

After breakfast, I asked about how to find some of the places I had seen as being interesting. One was the site of the Pharos Lighthouse, which was one of the seven ancient wonders of the world. It is long gone, of course, having fallen down a couple thousand years ago, but the site still exists and it has a fort on it now. I also wanted to go and see the catacombs that I read about in the guide the people at the tourist information office gave me. Finally there was a place called Pompey's Pillar that also sounded interesting. It was supposedly a tall granite pillar that had been made in one piece and erected in Roman, or perhaps Greek, times.

The guy told me I could walk to the site of the lighthouse, now the site of an arab fort and citadel built to protect the city from invaders from the sea. But I should take a taxi to visit the other two places. I just agreed with him, but in my mind I knew I wasn't going to be taking any taxi anywhere. The tiny map of Alexandria in my guide made it look like they were all within reasonable walking distance, and I wasn't about to be taking any taxi anywhere if I could help it.

I struck off towards the citadel, called Qaitbay Castle. It sits on a point at the west end of a bay on which the hotel where I was staying was situated. On the east side of the bay is the library. I had seen the castle the day before while I was walking to the library, but I hadn't been sure that was the place. It took about 20 minutes to get there.

The north side of the point is face on to the Mediterranean Sea. And in the winter the sea gets rough. So as I was walking up to the citadel, there were waves crashing against the rocks and the shore. It made a really nice picture of what it might have looked like long ago as the last bastion against an enemy, even one like the seas.

I purchased my ticket and went inside the citadel. The ticket price was a bit high, but the inside was still quite interesting. There were all kinds of interesting passages inside and under the castle. One went all the around the sea wall under the castle, without any actual access to the castle that I could tell.

As with all castles there were tunnels and courtyards and rooms all over the place, the function of which were sometimes not easy to tell. But it made for interesting exploring. I eventually made my way onto the outer wall and tried to get a good photo of the castle and courtyard. With no people. It took a lot of patience because people seemed to determined to get in the way or just stay in the way. But I managed it in the end, after I was approached by one of the guards of the castle, who wanted to take my photo and show me something. I knew where that was headed and so I just told him I was waiting to take a photo of the courtyard. I would find it later. He wandered off, frustrated.

After a while, after I got my photo, I went down and into the castle itself. It was a typical sort of castle, except it was a Muslim ruler's castle, so there was a mosque inside. When I entered the castle, there were two of the guards there. One immediately jumped up and wanted to show me the mosque. It was the same one who had taken my photo on the walls. He still wanted to try and get a tip, it seemed. I told him I wanted to visit upstairs first. He nodded and sat down again, clearly displeased that I was being so difficult.

I stayed up on the upper two levels for a long time, both because there were lots of passages and nooks and crannies to explore and because I was hoping to outlast that guard, that he would move to his next position. It was all empty, but it was cool the way it was laid out.

Eventually I went back down, and to my relief, that guard was gone. There were two others though, and they all seemed to want to be on the take. One jumped up and wanted to show me the mosque. I just pretended not to know English when he asked if I understood. I was going to pretend to not know any language he might have offered. He still gave it a shot and started to lead the way, and I went into another room instead. He came into that room when he realized I hadn't followed him. He had this hopeful look on his face. I got a photo in the room, and then I headed in the direction of the mosque.

The guard got all happy again and pointed to the spot where the ancient lighthouse had once stood. I was pretty sure it was more than just this one perhaps 4 square meter spot. It was a pretty big lighthouse by all accounts and would have had to have had a fairly large base. Either that or I understood why it had fallen down. But the spot was indicated by being behind a barrier and not seeming to serve any other purpose, so I figured out for myself that it was the lighthouse spot.

Then the guard led the way, without my allowing him to actually lead me, to the mosque. It too was barricaded off, but that was okay. It was easy to see all around it. And there was a sign explaining what it was and how it was set up. When I peered around the corner from behind the barricade, the guard “helpfully” pushed it aside so that I could go in if I wanted. I pretended not to know what he was offering. And I took photos up instead of where he thought I should take photos. I really can be a stinker at times. :)

I did get a pretty picture from the up direction though. The designs were quite nice.

Then I left the castle. When the guard went back to the door and tried to get me to stop and talk to them, I just pretended not to understand and left. Too bad guys, and better luck next time.

I had spent a good long time in the castle and wanted to find the catacombs. So I headed out into the street and then in the direction I thought I might find them, according to the relative locations on the tiny little map. I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out. I didn't want to take a taxi, but I was prepared for it should I get myself hopelessly lost and not have a clue where I might find it.

I did get myself hopelessly lost and I had wandered well past and to the northwest of the site in the end, as I discovered later. But I persevered. I had lots of time and the streets were full of interesting sights and nice people. I started asking about the place, called Kom el Shoqafa, as I was walking along. Initially, I had no luck. I modified my direction, and kept asking. And then I hit on someone who did know the place. That was progress. When you are in a large city and are looking for something and you are nowhere near it, you won't anyone who knows it. But as you get closer, you start to find people who have heard of it, and then who know how to find it, and then who can tell you exactly where to go (and not in a mean way), and then who know exactly what you are looking for before you can even ask because that is what people who are there are looking for. This was how it went for me. I kept asking and found people who knew more and more. Then I was walking along a dirt road where people were raising animals and slaughtering others. I felt this wasn't quite the place, but I didn't know where to turn. I was about to turn back to the last place I had had a good answer when a man told me I was going the wrong way. He pointed down a street and told me to go, then turn, then go some more, then turn again and then I would find it. I guess my blank look at the complexity of the directions was obvious. He commandeered a neighbourhood boy and told him to show me the way. The boy did. His name was Mohammed. The first boy of any family in Islam is to be called Mohammed after the prophet Mohammed. So it often seems that every other boy or man you meet is named Mohammed. Mohammed showed me along. He spoke some English and asked me some questions. As we progressed, we picked up a bunch of his friends. Before long there was a group of about 8 or 10 of us heading to the catacombs. It was fun. At length we arrived at the catacombs and I gave them a ten pound note to share amongst themselves for the help. I don't know if it did get shared. I suspect it didn't because one of the other boys came back later asking for more. He didn't get it. I was not about to be responsible for how they shared the money amongst themselves, when I told Mohammed clearly that he was to share it.

The catacombs also were a bit pricey, but I wanted to see them and the day was costing little else, so it was all right. The only thing I was disappointed about was that I couldn't take my camera in with me. Inside there were a couple of surface tombs. The catacombs had been discovered by accident when the ground gave way under a donkey one day early last century. When they were dug out, they found a necropolis and this one tomb in the center that was quite lavish and nice. I really wish I could have taken a photo of it. It was quite spectacular, way down under the ground like that.

It was well after noon by that time, so when I was walking out of the site and Mahmoud from the cafe across the way told me to come and have a tea, I accepted. He was nice. I sat and watched people smoking sheesha pipes and others playing dominoes. I never knew dominoes could go so fast. I seemed like they were starting a new setup every couple of minutes.

Then I paid for my tea and headed for Pompey's Pillar. It wasn't nearly as complicated to find. I was told to walk straight down the street and I would find it. It was quite that easy, but at the main street where I arrived, I looked around and saw a big and elaborate fence a block or so away. I thought that might be what I was looking for. It was. I went in and had a look there. I'm not sure of who built the pillar, but it is a solid piece of granite that is some 20 meters tall. It was built as part of a temple where people came and worshipped a couple of gods in a unified religion between Greek and Egyptian cosmology. The deities involved included Isis and something called the Apis Bull. But it was just a cool place. There were foundations of all sorts of things in the site.

There was a sacred pool...

...as well as Roman baths and columns galore.

And there was an underground here, too, but not a necropolis. It seemed to be a place for storage, but I could take photos there, so I was happy. It was another place I was glad I had searched out and was amazed that nobody knew.

Following Pompey's Pillar, I headed out into the street just as a street trolley came by. I hopped on, knowing that one of the routes went past my hotel. I didn't think it would be this one, but I asked if it went to the waterfront and the ticket guy said yes. Instead it went to the depot. But for 25 piastres, I didn't complain. I paid again to get on one going the other way and rode it for an hour. I saw all kinds of cool things: bustling markets, sidewalk furniture shops, fruit markets, and just plain daily life.

One spot, I saw this old woman with a remarkable face. I don't think it shows in my photo though.

And all along the way, there were coffee drinking/games playing/sheesha pipe smoking cafes.  This country loves its cafes!

The tram never did go to the waterfront, but it was a great ride anyway. Eventually we reached close the other end of the line, and I got off and headed, with the ticket guy's help, in the direction of the waterfront. I got there and determined which way to go to get to the hotel. I had to pass the library on the way. It had gotten dark by this time and I had the opportunity to get a photo of it at night. I was excited by that, and then I realized that it was the night of the full moon. The moon had risen behind the library, from my vantage point, and was reflected in the pool in front of the library. Sometimes I get so lucky!

After that, I was wandering around the forecourt area of the library, looking for more nice spots to take photos of the library, when I tripped on a step. I righted myself and looked up to see a taste from home. There was a Cinnabon in front of me. I was absolutely amazed. Was it a real one? I had to find out. So I went in and had one. And yes, it was real.

What a way to end an incredibly fun day!!!

Alexandria and the New Alexandria Library

Under the agreement that Isis wrung out of her hotel, I had the room until 6 am. This was not the best timing, but on the other hand, it meant that I would be up and out to do something with my remaining time in Egypt bright and early. So I got up as agreed and left. I asked how best to get to Alexandria. The guy at the desk told me that it was cold there and it was probably not a good idea to go. I don't know why everyone keeps telling me these sorts of things. First of all, I have a different conception of what is cold. I probably wouldn't agree with them. Secondly, I WANT TO GO, so stop trying to convince me otherwise. Listening to all these people tell me what I ought to do and how led me to being fairly disappointed in my activities to date, so I wasn't about to listen. He gave up trying to convince me not to go, and it was eventually worked out that the best option was to take the train to Alexandria. I made sure that there were no disruptions to the service. Like he was talking to a child, he explained that it was a different line and there were no disruptions. I really dislike when people talk to me like that so, like I was talking to a child, I told him that trains running in the direction away from the disruption at Dandara were also disrupted when they had no reason to be, so I was just making sure.

He also got a tongue lashing when I paid him for the room. He had told me he wanted 20 dollars, and I gave him 120 pounds, according to the prevailing exchange rate. He gave a small laugh as he said, in a voice that rang with incredulity, that I got it right. Well, it's not effing difficult, bozo. I informed him that tourists are not stupid and he really shouldn't laugh like that at his guests. It tends to annoy. He backtracked a bit and tried to apologize. He explained that many tourists came to his hotel after weeks in the country and didn't know the conversion rates. I let him know that not all tourists are like that. And I let him know that the customer service focus in the country would need to change if they expected to gain tourists back after the trouble. He was nonplussed about my rebuke, but he didn't say much. I was perhaps a bit harsh with him, but it really is annoying to feel treated that way. I do realize that there are lots of stupid tourists who are used to having everything done for them, but we are not all like that. Grrr...

I went out and rode the subway for far longer than I needed to in order to find the station at the train depot. I had been looking for Mubarak subway station, which I realized later was foolish. With Mubarak having been ousted and angrily so, it only occurred to me after I got the former Mubarak station, that the name had obviously and with good reason been changed. I was on a train by about 8:30 and on the way to Alexandria.

It is difficult to deal with trains here in some ways. There is no reason for them to do so, but there is very little English signage. So it is hard to find the correct track and train, when I have a ticket with tiny little Arabic letters and big English letters on it, trying to match those tiny little letters to the boards around the station. I really do want to learn to at least read Arabic before I return to the area, so that I can function more on my own, without having to rely on strangers to help me out.

After arriving in Alexandria, I went to the tourist information office in the train station. They were very nice and helped direct me to the hotel I had read about on the internet. They also gave me an information pamphlet about Egypt that I wish I had had a week and half ago. I saw all kinds of things and places that sound interesting. They will be good for a future visit.

I headed out more or less in the direction of the hotel and eventually stumbled across it. The Acropole Hotel, right near the waterfront, is very nice and friendly. It had a nice atmosphere and they were very helpful when I asked directions to various spots.

Alexandria was one of Alexander the Great's contributions to world cities. He actually built many Alexandria's and this one in Egypt was one of the greatest. He made it the capital of Egypt, and today it is still an important port and city in Egypt. It is the country's second largest city at 4 million people and is arranged along the northern coast of Egypt and to the west of the Nile delta.

The first spot I wanted to visit was the Alexandria Library. Alexandria was the location of one the ancient world's best libraries. It was said to hold the world's largest collection of scrolls and knowledge in the Greek world. It probably also held plenty of stuff from the Arab world as well, but nobody will ever know for sure. Somewhere along the way the library was destroyed. (I don't remember if it was sacked or if it was accidental or a natural disaster of some sort.) Along with it went untold riches of knowledge.

Recently, the library was brought back to life. A competition was held to design a new library. From all the submissions from around the world, the new library's design was chosen. It was quite striking.

There is apparently some kind of move to close the library by some politician. I couldn't read the Arabic on the signs, but there was a message in English everywhere. It was, “Save Our Library!” And there were posters everywhere with the opposing guy's face on it and big X's over his face. I think there may be a vote soon on the future of the library. I wish them luck saving the library. Something that beautiful shouldn't be closed and dismantled.

I went to the ticket booth and bought a ticket. It was only a dollar and a half (much less for locals), but I still found it a bit sad that a country would make an entrance fee to visit a library that ought to be public. Nevertheless, I was pleased with the way the inside looked as well. It was definitely a nice building.

They also have one of the only mirrors of the internet in the world. Somewhere in California is a complete archive of the internet compiled from 1996. There is a copy of every webpage ever made since that time. And it is stored on some kind of storage system in California. There are a couple of backup copies in the world, and one of those is in the library at Alexandria. Their sign says it is the only complete archive copy in the world. Of course, it also says that it holds the archive from the time of 1996 to 2007. It has been a little while since then, so maybe it's not quite complete. But it is still impressive. The room is huge!!!

Part of my entrance ticket included two museums that were located under the library. They were accessed by exiting the library and going down outside. So after updating my Facebook status while in the library, which I thought was very cool, I headed out and into the museums. I couldn't take photos in there, but the first one was interesting. It was an antiquities museum. It contained a lot of Egyptian and Greek and Roman artefacts. There were a lot of statues and even some recently unearthed pieces of the original library. There were some incredible mosaics that had been part of the library floor. They were quite amazing.

There was also a section on the artefacts that have been found on the floor of the Mediterranean Sea along the Alexandria waterfront. Recent explorations have turned up an incredible trove of ancient treasures from statues and other carvings to actual treasure in the form of gold and silver jewellery and coins. And there is so much more waiting out there to be discovered.

The other museum I kind of wish I hadn't added. It was a manuscript museum. I'm sure some would find it interesting. And some of the books were very old, up 1200 and 1300 years old. But to me they were just old books. And not very interesting ones either. Oh well.

Having finished up with the library, I headed back to the hotel to get some rest. The previous two nights had been too short for me with the lack of sleep on the train, and then having to get up at six that morning after Isis' deal that she had reached. It had been a long day, but Alexandria felt like a great city and it just acted lots friendlier. I was happy to be there and in defiance of all the people who said I shouldn't bother with it.